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Since most modern semi PRO and PRO DSLR cameras has micro AF adjustments for lenses in the menu, you could improve the sharpness of a lens.

This can done in several ways, one is to print out focus sharts and rulers and do this manually. I’ve tested this, and I did not get it to work properly. I then found a software called Focal PRO that solves this automatically!

I’ve tested Focal PRO on my Nikon DSLR with my Nikon 28-70 2.8 lens, and it works great! It now produces sharp images at 2.8!

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The Nikon D300 supports 6fps without a battery grip and 8fps with a battery grip. However, it is possible to shot a burst of 9 shots with the rate of 8fps without a grip!

Do the following settings in the menu:

Custom settings menu –

c. Custom setting bank – Select a new bank, for instance B.
e. Bracketing/flash
– e5. Auto bracketing set = Flash only.
– e6. Auto bracketing mode = Flash only.
f. Controls
– f4. Assign Func button. Func button press = Bkt bracketing burst. Func button + dials = Bkt auto bracketing.

That’s all the settings, now hold down the Func button and change the right dial so the upper lcd shows 9F 1.0.

Then, set the left dial to S.

Finally set the Qual to Large (it does not work with Large + raw at the same time).

Then, hold down the Func button, press down the shutter half way to focus, and press all the way to fire away a burst of maximum 9 shots at 8fps!

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Nikon recently released the lenses AF-S NIKKOR 16-35MM F/4G ED VR and AF-S NIKKOR 24MM F/1.4G ED.

I guess the 16-35 is a replacement for the old Nikon 17-35 2,8 (currently sold in USA/Asia). I’ve planned to by the 17-35 to have as my wide angle zoom, but now I can’t decide if I will buy the new one instead (or maybe I just buy the cheaper 18-35 3,5-4,5 instead)…

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Nikon D3s

Nikon releast its latest flag ship, the Nikon D3s about a week ago! It’s an improved version of the D3 camera, with the ability to catch HD video (720p) as well as taking images with the whopping ISO 102400 (that’s crazy!). Check out the brief hands on at DP Review here:

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0910/09101403NikonD3shandson.asp

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I found these sites on the net: http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/ and http://www.lenshoods.net/.  These sites describes how to make your own lens hoods using paper. I guess you can print out the lens hood on paper, then use it as a template and cut it out in bendable plastic instead. I thinking of doing this for my Nikon 35-70 2,8, and clue that created hood onto the original HB-3 hood. The HB-3 hood is quite small, and the template on these sites are bigger, so I guess it should work and create a much better lens hood.

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Nikon 35-70 2,8

After reads too many reviews, I decided to buy the old Nikon 35-70 2,8 lens lens. This lens is supposed to have the same optical performance as the newer Nikon 24-70 2,8, but at a much lesser price (since it’s discontinued). The lens is built in metallic, since it is a professional lens. It’s bigger and heavier then consumer level zoom lenses, but much smaller that the huge Nikon 24-70 2,8.

One of the drawbacks is that the range is not optimal for a DX camera (since the DX crop factor makes the 35mm the lens to effectively 52mm, which is  not so wide). The autofocus is also a bit slower than the newer Nikon 24-70.

Another drawback is that this lens is suppose to flare quite easily, at lease when shooting directly at the sun. The lens hood is not the best, my lens came with the HB-3 lens hood. I’ve read on numerous forums that other lens hood should minimize this behaviour, and I have ordered the Nikon HB-18 to try out instead. All lens hoods with the filter size 62mm could work for this lens, however some may cause it to vignette (especially on an FX camera). I ordered the The HB-18, which is used on the Nikon 28-105 3.5-4.5, but it didn’t fit, it had a different attachment :-(. Others have reported that lens hood HB-15, which is used on the Nikon 70-300 ED, should work fine on DX (and almost eliminate the flare problem) .

The lens is a push-pull zoomed, instead of twisting for zooming. As I read on the net, some does not like this, but after using the lens for a day, I have no problem at all pushing and pulling to zoom. The front of the lens does rotate during focusing, which is not so good when using polarize filters. If you can live with these drawbacks (I can), you will have a stunning lens which takes crisp and sharp images!

Here is two images of the lens:

Nikon 35-70 2,8

Nikon 35-70 2,8 extendedExtended to 35mm

And some example photos (this is shoot with the “macro” mode, this lens has a button to use for macro in 35mm, manual focus only), which seems to work quite well:

Nikon 35-70 2,8 Macro - Flower with butterfly

Nikon 35-70 2,8 Macro - Flower

Nikon 35-70 2,8 Macro - Flower with bee

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Nikon has released the Nikon Coolpix s1000pj digital compact camera, which is the first digital camera which has a built in projector for showing pictures. Checkout the video on youtube! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FvOb__nY2oU&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fnikonrumors%2Ecom%2F&feature=player_embedded

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